Post #15. October 18th. Essaouira
This morning I skip breakfast and the morning tour to sleep. Judith ends up going out with our guide to tour the port. Although I’m sorry to miss out on this part of the tour (I suffer from FOMO in a big way - fear of missing out), I know that trying to get better was more important. So using Judith’s four pictures she sent me (really I would have had about a hundred!) I’ve put together a port recap.
Essaouira Port is known to be a pretty lively place. It used to be the major port for Morocco up until the middle of the 19th century, handling half of the country’s foreign trade (which unfortunately was involved in trade items since abolished such as slave and ivory trading). Today it’s mainly a fishing port. I’m told, the fishermen go out in the evening and return in the morning. Sardines are an important part of the fishery. Where there are fish, there are also seagulls and so this port is chock full of seagulls, squawking and fighting for food.
Seagulls everywhere and looking to steal a meal.
There is an entry gate connecting the city to the port. Bab El-Marsa (the Gate of the Navy) is an imposing archway built in 1769. There are two watchtowers to each side of the gate. The architect of the gate was an Englishman named appropriately, Ahmed El-Eulj (the European). The gate, Bab El-Marsa, is connected to the boarding docks which let the boats enter the harbour and remain safe from fire from offshore enemy ships.
From Bab El-Marsa is a fortified bridge that gives access to a very long artillery platform known as the Sqala of the port. It defended the port from external attacks by a series of canons and watchtowers. The Sqala has a dozen armoured bronze cannons facing out to sea. The Squala itself has a roundabout design that allowed the artillery pieces to be moved around. It also has a panoramic view so that you can see the Medina, the port, the Sqala and the bay.
Seagulls, boats and the fortified harbour wall.
The Sqala with a long line of artillery.
After Judith’s morning tour of the port and my morning sleep we were off to the goat cheese farm. La Fromagerie is located about 20 minutes from our hotel on the main route out of Essaouira. The farm house is a beautiful home and we have a lovely meal in a covered courtyard area. We had a chance to talk to the owner, a former French Canadian from Ottawa, who moved here about 30 years ago to start up a cheese making operation. It’s now branched out to serving lunches and accommodation. Our guide advises that the owner’s health had declined significantly since he originally came; he’s now wheel chair bound, moving around in an electric mobility scooter.
We passed the pool area. It really looked pretty inviting.
View from our lunch table. It really was a lovely lunch with plenty of courses, appetizer, main course and cheese plate. Of course there was an enormous selection of breads and olives. We were only able to graze bits of all the selections.
Admittedly, I didn’t eat a lot of the lunch, still under the effects of my gastrointestinal issues. It really didn’t clear until I came home, so the rest of my Morocco culinary experiences were very restrained.
We took the opportunity to visit the goat farm section of the farm. There were many goats in a couple of enclosures as well as some chickens and other fowl in another one. Judith took the opportunity to cuddle with a baby goat—I wouldn’t be surprised if that was the highlight of her trip. She’s been wanting to do that with all the street cats, but the cats aren’t being looked after and have health issues such as fleas and such.
And a happy camper cuddling a baby goat.
We drove back to Essaouira and stopped at the start of the long boardwalk that borders the waterfront beach in order to walk back towards the Medina area. There is lots of activity available to take part in, kite surfing, camel and horse riding, swimming, surfing, not to mention volleyball, eating, and people watching. I’d say it’s all there.
We headed back into the Medina a stopped to get some refreshments. The walk was about 40 minutes and we really didn’t dawdle much. At the restaurant from where we were sitting, we had the opportunity to watch a DJ set up his portable stand and we got to groove to his music. I understand he’s there just about every day and seemed to be pretty popular. It probably didn’t hurt to set up at a strategic location near a number of busy outdoor cafes. It wouldn’t surprise me if he makes a pretty good living doing this.
We finish up our refreshments and head back to the hotel. I went to bed. Tomorrow, we’re up early to head for Casablanca.
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