Post #3 Oct 6. Tangier

I woke up to the ping of a WhatsApp message landing in my inbox.  I had arranged with Judith the night before that she should send me a text if I wasn’t downstairs for breakfast by 7:30.  I thought I had set my alarm properly, but I must have fallen back asleep. 

By the time I made it to breakfast it was 8:00.  Judith praised the fresh orange juice and the pastries.  She said she only had a croissant, but I know better.  I went over to the egg station and ordered a one egg omelette.  I then went and got a bunch of fresh fruit—it’s really my favourite part of these breakfasts.  Judith finished and went upstairs to her room while I stayed a bit longer to finish my breakfast and then raced up to get ready by 9:00, the time we said we would meet our driver.

We left Rabat a few minutes after 9.  It’s about a 3 hour drive to Tangier.  The drive took us north along the main highway (A5) up the coast.  The scenery changed quickly from settlement to forest.  We drove through Forest Maâmora, a large national forest that is about 1330 square km in size.  Approximately a sixth of the western side of this forest is covered in cork oak trees.  The cork tree coverage used to be more—the eastern section is now a drier climate with harder soil and the cork oak trees have almost completely disappeared in this section.  Maâmora is a state-managed forest and is important due to its cork production, source of fuel wood, grazing for livestock and recreation.  

Cork oak trees.  Pictures from the drive are taken at 80 to 120 km/hr so they’re not as sharp as I would like.

Along the road there were buildings that appear run down.  Our guide Mounied said these homes were built some time ago without proper permits.  The government is looking to find new housing arrangements for these people so that these units can be torn down.  

Houses above built without proper permitting.  

The land eventually flattens out and becomes agricultural.  There are many kilometers of what appear to be owner managed farms.  The operations appear to be small with a wide variety of produce being grown on small plots of land.  We see large greenhouse structures covered with plastic sheeting where bananas are being grown.

These makeshift looking greenhouses are made with plastic sheeting and we can see that bananas are grown in these units.  Other crops we recognize being grown on these fields from our vantage point on the road, include corn and beans.

We take a rest stop near Larache.  It’s identifiable because there’s a McDonald’s restaurant in the complex.  The main facility consists of individual “fast food” shops that provide a quick meal on the road. 

Our car parked at the gas station/rest stop.  

“Fast food” at the rest stop.   The cooking bays are at the far end of the seating area and food was being prepared for the expected lunch crowd.  

The oven set up at the bread place.  The vendors getting ready for a lunch crowd interested me and I walk over to where a woman was baking bread in an outdoor oven made of clay.  She had several small loaves tucked into her oven and deftly moving them in the oven with a long hooked stick.  I watch her skillfully flip them over and position them closer or further away from the coals as needed.  Our driver came over to help me negotiate a sale, but she ended up giving one to me and not accepting any money for it.  I tried to tear the bun in half as quickly as possible.  It was still very hot and I came close to incurring some burns trying to share it.  It tasted great and I let her know.   The cooking bays are at the far end of the seating area and food was being prepared for the expected lunch crowd.  

She let me take her picture when I asked.  This still brings a smile to my face.  

I also had the opportunity to check out the convenience store offerings.  I was intrigued by the Roasted Chicken and Black Caviar potato chip flavours.  

Our first stop was Hercules Cave located at Cap Spartel, the most northwestern point in Morocco.  The cave has a mythological significance dating back to Roman times.  The story involves Hercules needing to cross the Atlas Mountains in northwest Africa.  Instead of climbing the mountain, he used his superhuman strength to smash through it.  The result was that be connected the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea and formed the Straight of Gibraltar.

Although the caves have been used since 6,000 BC by Neolithic people, the modern day use was opened in 1920 with lights added in 1982.

Entrance to the Cave.

Inside the cave looking out at the Atlantic Ocean.   There were several lobes of the cave system that aren’t shown.  They were all well lit with decorative lights.  

Back outside the cave, we walk to edge of the patio overlooking the Atlantic Ocean/Mediterranean Sea.  There were a few people exploring the water’s edge and many fishermen trying to land a big one.  No one did that while we were looking.  

From there we made our way to the top of the Cap (Cape) Spartel complex.  Cap Spartel is a promontory about 1000 feet above sea level at the entrance of the Strait of Gibraltar.  A lighthouse was built on this promontory in 1964 at the edge of the cliff.  We explore the botanical gardens, the lighthouse museum and then climb to the top of the lighthouse.  

The spiral staircase looking up.  At the top of the were two more flights of metal spiral staircases to get to the top.   

And this is some of the view from the top of the lighthouse.  Spain is normally visible on a clear day but today was a bit overcast and foggy.  

We go back down the hill to take a the signature souvenir photo.

We’re standing where the Atlantic Ocean and Mediterranean Sea meet.

Our next stop was to explore the Tangier Medina and Kasbah, the citidal and the old town.  The roads are like a labyrinth, and was glad to be led through the roadways with a knowledgeable guide.  I took many pictures of doors; they’re wooden and all seem to look so fabulous.  

This is the main gate that we used to enter the Kasbah, the walled fortress area.

The walls are very thick.

This museum held the story of Ibn Battouta.  Born in 1304 in Tangier and died 1368 is regarded as the greatest traveller to ever roam the earth, visiting most of North, East and West Africa, the Middle East, Central, South and Southeast Asia, China, and the Iberian Peninsula.  He wrote a book known as the Rihia, chronicling his journeys.   

Typical Tangier Medina sights.

We had a small snack here at Gran Café Central.  It’s a busy place and the premier people watching place in the Medina on the Petit Sacco, a small open square.    We ordered Tangier’s signature tea drink of green tea stuffed with lots of fresh mint.  I followed with a seafood tangine and Judith had some grilled shrimp.  And there were several mobile vendors selling mocha flavoured slices.  Judith succumbed to the temptation.  

After our snack we left the Medina through these stairs.

We ended up on this large open park and walked over to meet our driver.  Our next stop was to the hotel which was about 30 minutes back towards Rabat.  

We’re staying at the Hilton Tangier Al Houara Resort and Spa.  Our guide has said that it’s pretty nice and he was right.  

The entrance. 

The room

The bathroom

Our view of the Atlantic Ocean

We took a walk on the beach.  Vehicles are allowed to drive up and down.  I’m not sure how long this beach is but it looks much longer than Long Beach in Tofino.

The view of our hotel complex from the beach.  It’s a large sprawling place and we managed to get lost finding our way from our room to the lobby to have some dinner.  

Our dinner was a bit of sushi comprising of assorted nigiri and a cucumber maki roll.  It was surprisingly good.  

Tomorrow we’re travelling about 130 km to Chefchaouen.  It will take just over 2 hours.  Leaving at 9:30 am